Technological / Enological progress

[jochems]

Dear Andrea,

In many of your replies you write about the fact that you don't want to leave your 'mark' on the wine. And you choose to make the vinification as much as possible a natural process. And I much appreciate that approach. I don't like 'engineered' wines.

Now, I was wondering, if you don't apply a lot of technology in the wine making process, is there any progress or development in the quality? And where have you personally seen the most important developments over the past 10-20 years?

Kind regards,
Albert Jochems

[Andrea Sottimano]

dear Albert,
you're right, I try to avoid any technology that could mark the wines, but this doesn't mean that we work in the cellar or in the vineyards as nothing is happened in these last 30 years!

You know, both me and my father we are oenologue, and I personally studied in Italy and France with some very good researcher, particulary on the matter of the influence of the work in the vineyards with the health of the skins and the increase of the natural yeasts during the fermentation.
You see, technics or developments could be good or bad, it depends how you use them and for which purposes.
Now for example we know that natural yeasts need at the begin of the fermentation a lower temperature to multiplicate better, that's why we chill the juice after the press, or that a very soft press could be very good for the extraction of colour and aromas, that's why we have a very modern press who work very very slow, and permit us, if we want, to leave some stems in certain vintages.

These are only examples of how many years of study and research helped us to understand better the wine, and, if we want, to avoid any chemical, sometimes useless chemical products.


I hope I've been clear, let me know what do you think,

Ciao, Andrea

[jochems]

Dear Andrea,

Thank you for you reply.
You give some interesting examples. I understand that it is more about how you treat the grapes, than what you treat them with!

You explain that you and your father are both oenologist. That provides you with a scientific background for your job as a winemaker. But I expect that there is also an element of 'historical knowledge' that helps you to be a good winemaker. Is there something like a collective memory about winemaking in Piemonte? Or, do you share knowledge among winemakers in you region?
Is there any advancement in development of varieties of Nebbiolo vines? And does that make your wines better?

I ask these questions because I am intrigued by the fact that there are so many wines with character and personality produced in countries like Italy and, dare I say, France. While many 'new world' wines are often impressive and concentrated but lack the delicacy, refinement and most important that intangible "you can taste where it comes from" that might be best described by the French word terroir. Something that is particularly apparent in Barbaresco and Barolo.

And in addition to that I do see that the overall quality level of Italian wines has increased dramatically over the past 15 years. Just like we discussed in the Dolcetto and Barbera topic. Excellent years are beming slightly more excellent. But, most remarkable, in average years there is a significant increase in quality.

Well, It has become a long text. But I hope you can make some sense out of it!

[Andrea Sottimano]

Dear Albert,

thanks for yours comments, I found your question very intriguing because in it there is the spirit of our philosophy.

You've asked about a collective memory, and, yes, of course there is, and it's particularly strong and living!
My father now has 38 harvest on his shoulders, and he always shared his impressions and his experiences with the others producers of our zone, and so they did it back with him.
If you come in the Langhe, and this is something we are really proud, you'll notice immediatly the friendship and the motivation we have each other with all the producer.
You know, and this is a part of the answer, in this region there are not, or very few, sales manager or marketing director; here when you visit a cellar you will meet the owner, who is also the agronomist, who is also the winemaker and the sales manager.
We never really gave too much importance to what we should do to sell easier our wines, we heard and take care of all the suggestions, but if they could change our "roots" we simply go on on our way.
Add to this, and this is really important, [u]that we are one of the very few zone in the world in which only one grape is permitted, no blends allowed, no foreign grapes into Barolo and Barbaresco[/u], and you will see one of the multiple reasons why here "you can taste where the wine comes from"...
Let me give you an example.

A few years ago, there was some people who presented to the Counseil of B & B a request to introduce foreign grapes into the final blend of Barolo and Barbaresco.You know, a lot of clients in the world have some troubles with Piedmontese wines because they are too tannic, too hard, no colour, no appeal...
The results?....99.8 % of the producers said no, after a 5 min.reunion.
If someone want an easy, appealing fruity wine there are plenty of places in the world who produce them yet.Here we produce Barbaresco and Barolo!

For what matter the vines, we all know that the older ones are the best, and when you have to replace them you take it from the vines you have yet.

I hope to have the time to add some more reflections to this post,

Ciao, Andrea

[jochems]

Dear Andrea,

Thank you for your elaborate response. I learn a lot about the essence of what your wine making philosophy is.

I have to confess that I have more experience with wines from one of the other zones that allow only one type of grape to be used: Brunello di Montalcino. I know, I know, there has been a lot of debate about that!!

When I compare your stories with stories from winemakers in Montalcino it strikes me that you (and many other Barbaresco and Barolo producers) are talking a lot more about differences in vineyards. While in Montalcino a lot is being talked about the use of Botti or Barique and the type of sangiovese clone.

Now I have a few more questions:
1 - Is it the type of grape that is causing the focus on soil and vineyard position, or is the Langhe region and microclimate so special?

2 - Do you have any winemaking experience outside the Lange? And is the Nebbiolo grape more sensitive to 'terroir' than Sangiovese?

3 - After this discussion I HAVE to learn more about differences in your Barbaresco. So, I want to try it for myself. But, my favourite wine shop only has '04 and '05 available. The Pajore '04 I had a few weeks ago was way to young to my taste. If I want to learn more about the different vineyards would it be better to try the '05? You write in another topic that this vintage is more approachable.

Thanks again for your response!

Albert Jochems

[Guest]

Dear Albert,

the factor that make our region so special is the unique combination between a very particular grape, Nebbiolo, and the composition of the soil.
You've pointed it well, every producer in the Langhe speak very little about their cellars, but you'll see a light in their eyes when they talk about the soils and the exposures of the best vineyards.

If you will ever try a Nebbiolo from regions outside Langhe, as Gattinara or Valtellina, you will see immediatly that the taste and the flavours are completely different from a Barbaresco.

2

I've worked in France and I have very good relations with producers in Burgundy and Tuscany.Sangiovese is as sensitive to terroir as is the Nebbiolo.If you are lucky enough to find an old Castello di Ama or Felsina you will taste it for sure.Probably not every producers of Sangiovese are used to think about their production on single vineyards basis, as we are.

3Well, I will defintely suggest to you to cellar for a few years more every 2004 you have (but you'll see in 5-6 years what kind of wines they'll become!) and go for sure on 05.
I'm not saying it's an easy vintage (00 and 03 are like this), but tannins and structure are far more velvety and elegant than 04.
If I can suggest, try Fausoni 2005, always the softer and smoother, because of the soils of neive.

Ciao,Andrea

[jochems]

Dear Andrea,

Many thanks for your conversations. I have learned a lot while discussing with you on this topic.

I hope we can meet sometime in the near future and exchange our ideas about wine while actually enjoying one of your great wines!

Respectfully,
Albert Jochems